Apr 232012
 

Janalyn Fleming

By Janalyn Fleming, Landscape Designer, Dundee Nursery and Landscaping

To berm or not to berm, that is the question. Whether tis nobler in the mind to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageously flat landscapes, or take arms against them and create “The Berm.”

I usually berm almost every garden I plan.  I can’t help it, I really like the appeal of a planted mound of earth, whether large or small.  It always shows off the plants to their advantage.

In case you’re wondering, a berm is a raised garden area, like a small hill, for the purpose of creating interest or height.  With the right placement and plantings a berm can have many functions.  A berm can help block an unappealing view and be planted with shrubs or evergreens for a privacy green screen.  Or it can be a more subtle feature, useful in small garden areas, such as near foundations or along walkways.  These mini berms are raised slightly, less than a foot, and often planted with smaller stature perennials, shrubs, and dwarf evergreens.

I’m of the natural-looks-better mindset for these raised garden areas.  When planning a berm on a flat property, a long, undulating shape that gently rises out of the ground, looks more natural than a pimple-like bump in the lawn.  A berm should have some peaks and valleys rather than all the same height and will also appear more natural by blending or connecting to an existing slope.  And placing outcrop boulders in a steep-sided berm makes an interesting contrast for plants growing over and around the hard shapes, while helping to control erosion.  One more thing I’d like to mention about shaping a berm; it’s important to be aware of water drainage, so that water runoff isn’t trapped in an unwanted place.

Apart from the aesthetics, another nice berm benefit is that many perennials perform better when growing in the looser soil of a berm than when planted in the compacted soil of the typical suburban yard.  I like to use a garden mix soil, which is a blend of black soil and peat moss, then rake and shape the berm before planting.  If possible, I plan a full garden, spacing so plants will be touching each other when mature, mimicking plants growing on their own in nature, but with a designer’s hand.  Later on, this plant spacing will require less mulch coverage… oops, now I’m wandering into a different topic.

If something is rotten in the state of Denmark – or in your landscape – consider adding a berm.  It is a much more pleasant subject to contemplate than poor Yorick’s skull.

Berm in a Landscape

Apr 162012
 

Janalyn FlemingBy Janalyn Fleming, Landscape Designer, Dundee Nursery and Landscaping

No, I’m not talking about cutting down a few trees to brighten your shade areas, although a little judicious pruning is a good way to shed some light on the situation.  What I have in mind is taking a look at some of the many perennials that perform well in shade, or at least tolerate it admirably.  For shade gardens, foliage is the most important design consideration, so plants with bright variegation or yellow-green leaves can make the darkness shine. But this time I’ll focus on a few yellow leafy shiners. I’ve used some of these in my gardens, and every year there are new introductions that I’m eager to try.  Another bonus, most of these are deer and/or rabbit resistant, alas, except for the hostas.

Hakonechloa (Japanese Forest Grass) ‘Aureola’ (shown below) or ‘All Gold’ – This is an absolutely beautiful group of low maintenance grasses for shade. Zone 5 hardy, (Twin Cities area is Zone 4b) but with a little winter mulch or a protected location they can do quite well in the southern half of Minnesota.  They appreciate a more humus-rich soil, so dig in some leaf mold or compost when planting.  Please, be patient, they’re a slow starter in spring and take a few years to mature, but will become a graceful flowing mound.  Fantastic falling over rocks or the edge of a patio.  9-14” H x 18-24” W Japanese Forest Grass-Hakonechloa macra 'Aureola'

Fern – Athyrium ‘Ghost’ (Japanese Painted Fern) – Here’s a fern that’s frosted apple green, not quite yellow, but is very bright in the garden, almost ghostly.  It has dark purple stems that hold the fronds upright.  Another reason I’m a fan is that it’s taller than most Japanese Painted Ferns and tolerates dryer soil.  24-36” H x 18-24” W

'Ghost' Japanese Painted Fern - Athyrium

Heuchera ‘Electra’ (Coralbells – Shown Below), Heucherella ‘Gold Zebra’ (Foamy Bells) – Heucheras & Heucherellas are plant relatives that I have in my top 10 list of favorite perennials.  Long-lived, small mounding plants that are perfect for border edges, very low maintenance, and just plain cute.  As a group they come in a huge variety of leaf colors, but the two mentioned here are shocking yellow with burgundy veining.  They have the added bonus of flowering, small white bells on scapes held high above the foliage.  Due to their smallish size, plant them in groups of at least 5 for the best impact.  8-10” H x 15” W

Heuchera Electra

Dicentra ‘Gold Heart’ (Bleeding Heart) - Bleeding Hearts are well known with gardeners as being an old-fashioned perennial that appears very early in spring with delicate heart-shaped, rosy flowers.  ‘Gold Heart’ is a newer take on the old-fashioned fave that features, yes, bright yellow foliage.  The leaf color tends to mellow out as the summer progresses and the whole plant will die back to the ground mid-season.  I think it’s lovely in a natural garden setting. 18-24” H x 24-36” W

Dicentra 'Gold Heart'

Hostas:  ‘Sun Power’, ‘Maui Buttercups’, ‘Dancing Queen’, ‘Fire Island’, ‘Sum and Substance’   We’re all familiar with hostas but I just have to mention them because there are some terrific yellow-leaved varieties that totally glow in shade.  Hostas can make a real impact on the dark areas of a garden with their large leaves and blocky form.  Group them together in large drifts or use individual plants as accents.  Sizes vary.

Hosta 'Sum and Substance'