By Janalyn Fleming, Landscape Designer, Dundee Nursery and Landscaping
To berm or not to berm, that is the question. Whether tis nobler in the mind to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageously flat landscapes, or take arms against them and create “The Berm.”
I usually berm almost every garden I plan. I can’t help it, I really like the appeal of a planted mound of earth, whether large or small. It always shows off the plants to their advantage.
In case you’re wondering, a berm is a raised garden area, like a small hill, for the purpose of creating interest or height. With the right placement and plantings a berm can have many functions. A berm can help block an unappealing view and be planted with shrubs or evergreens for a privacy green screen. Or it can be a more subtle feature, useful in small garden areas, such as near foundations or along walkways. These mini berms are raised slightly, less than a foot, and often planted with smaller stature perennials, shrubs, and dwarf evergreens.
I’m of the natural-looks-better mindset for these raised garden areas. When planning a berm on a flat property, a long, undulating shape that gently rises out of the ground, looks more natural than a pimple-like bump in the lawn. A berm should have some peaks and valleys rather than all the same height and will also appear more natural by blending or connecting to an existing slope. And placing outcrop boulders in a steep-sided berm makes an interesting contrast for plants growing over and around the hard shapes, while helping to control erosion. One more thing I’d like to mention about shaping a berm; it’s important to be aware of water drainage, so that water runoff isn’t trapped in an unwanted place.
Apart from the aesthetics, another nice berm benefit is that many perennials perform better when growing in the looser soil of a berm than when planted in the compacted soil of the typical suburban yard. I like to use a garden mix soil, which is a blend of black soil and peat moss, then rake and shape the berm before planting. If possible, I plan a full garden, spacing so plants will be touching each other when mature, mimicking plants growing on their own in nature, but with a designer’s hand. Later on, this plant spacing will require less mulch coverage… oops, now I’m wandering into a different topic.
If something is rotten in the state of Denmark – or in your landscape – consider adding a berm. It is a much more pleasant subject to contemplate than poor Yorick’s skull.
this sounds like a great idea for clay soils, as a more natural-looking raised bed. If we did this, and wanted to plant for wildlife in a small area, could you recommend any native grasses that birds like as cover or for food? Something that’s not aggressive. thanks!
Here are some great native species grasses, clump forming types (not aggressive), low maintenance, deer resistant:
Sporobolus heterolepis (Prairie Dropseed)
Slow grower (but worth the wait), full sun (can tolerate a part light shade), 2-3′ W x 2-3′ H, green, soft, drooping, graceful refined form, tan fall color, low water needs… one of my faves! The best of the natives, imho
From Walters Gardens, Inc. website:
“Considered by many to be one of the most refined of all native prairie grasses, Prairie Dropseed has a soft, fountain-like look about it. The green leaves are very narrow, almost threadlike, and grow to form an 18 inch tall clump. It often turns rich shades of gold or deep orange in the fall and then light copper to creamy tan in winter.
In late summer, soft pinkish brown flowers are produced atop thin, arching stems held high above the foliage. These panicles are filled with distinctly sweet smelling seeds which smell like ground coriander. Though it produces an abundance of seeds, it is not known to seed invasively in the landscape.
This grass is very heat and drought tolerant because it is deep rooted. It is often planted en masse as a groundcover or as a specimen.
Prairie Dropseed is native to North American prairies and occurs naturally from Canada to Texas. Much of it has been destroyed by overgrazing and farming, so now it is only found in undisturbed prairies. Native Americans once used its seeds to make flour. This plant gets its name from the way the tiny mature seeds drop to the ground in the fall. Birds and other wildlife depend on this plant as a nutritious food source. Native”
Schizachyrium scoparium (Little Bluestem)
Several cultivars available (BLUE HEAVEN™ (‘MinnblueA’ PP17310) – from the U of M), cultivar sizes vary- Height: 2′-4.5′, Width: 18″-40″, several with wonderful blue coloration, low water needs, medium growth rate, cut down in late fall for sturdier plant next year, good fall color and interest
Walters Gardens, Inc. website again:
“Little Bluestem is a native prairie grass that is said to have originated in Missouri. It can be found in the wild as far north as Quebec, east to Maine, south to Florida, and west to Arizona. Once one of the most characteristic grasses of American tallgrass praries, Little Bluestem is now the official state grass of Nebraska.
Schizachyrium is a great choice if you are looking to restore an eroded site, or for a plant that will grow in hot, dry areas where other plants have a hard time surviving.
This species can have blue, green, or purple leaves, all of which turn a beautiful cinnamon-red in the fall. Fluffy silvery-white seed heads begin to appear in midsummer.”
Panicum virgatum (Blue Switch Grass)
This grass is available from Dundee, in several cultivars, sizes, forms and colors. The variety ‘Cheyenne Sky’ has a smaller stature and red coloration … a nice hardy alternative to the annual red Fountain Grass (Pennisetum) that everyone loves.
Yup, Walters Gardens, Inc. website says:
“Switch grass gets its name from the peaceful swishing sound it makes when blowing in the wind. All parts of this grass are very sturdy, and will remain standing thru winter unless snows are heavy. This provides important cover for birds during the coldest days of winter. This grass is very versitile from a design standpoint; it is effective as a specimen, in masses, for screening, alongside ponds or streams, or even in large containers.” Native.”
Hope this answers your question! Thanks for asking.
Jan